33 replies to this topic

[billh]

haank, on 17 April 2012 - 06:02 AM, said:

Update: I visited my local bike shop Saturday and after discussion the recommendation was if the main purpose of the cross bike was to ride the Katy, then get a road bike and put Katy tires on it (28's was the recommendation). I would have versatility then for Katy and road. Basic line of thinking was the cross bike is primarily specific to cross racing of course so if I don't intend to use it for that purpose, then why get it? If road and Katy is primarily my aim then just get a road bike with Katy tires. I was also told the road bike is going to be cheaper for same quality because cross is more specialized.

Any thoughts? I was invited to test drive bikes but it was raining so will wait for another day.

Thanks again.

I think the other way around, a road bike is specific to road racing, but a cx bike is the more versatile machine, road, trail, commute.  You just wouldn't want to do a road race on a cross bike.

[cleeland]

Jettmugg and billh are spot on IMHO.

(null)

[Jetmugg]

Cleeland is spot-on also.  Haank - what is your geographic location?  Based on the fact that this is the StL Biking board, I'll assume it's in the St Louis metro area.  Depending on where exactly you are located, there is a good chance that someone local would be willing to let you test ride both a road and a 'cross bike.

Steve.

[thefutureofamerica]

Jetmugg, on 17 April 2012 - 07:48 AM, said:

If you are trying to stay in the $600-800 range, my personal preference would be to buy a used bike, a couple of years old, with a higher end groupset.  For my money, a used bike like that would be better than a new bike with a bottom-shelf groupset.

+1 - I payed ~700 for a 1-year old Ultegra-equipped Aluminum Ridley CX bike about 3 years ago, which I really really like and would be in your range.

BUT, do think about two things - fitting and maintenance. If you're concerned about comfort, a lot of that has to do with fit, especially stem length and angle. Longer wheelbases ride more stably, but they're not comfort-oriented if you've got a long, low stem that stresses your back on long days on the Katy. A lot of shops will include a basic bike fit and swap parts like stems and seatposts as needed to get you positioned well at little or no cost.

Some shops in the area also include as much as lifetime tune-ups with new bikes, and a tune-up can run you $80... plus wheel truings, etc... if you prefer to do your own maintenance, then it's not such a big issue, but it's worth thinking about especially if you're newer to bikes.

Have fun and good luck.

[Jetmugg]

Haank:
   Depending on your physical size, you might want to check with the seller of this Scott CX bike.

http://stlbiking.com...-scott-cx-comp/

[haank]

Thanks again for all the input here. I checked the Scott cx but it's not my size. I'm in the Washington MO area. Anybody have an opinion on this bike? http://www.bikesdire...s_cx2.htm#specs

I need to get fitted. Bike Shop guy told me I'm probably a 58. I'm 6-1 with 34 inseam if that means anything.

[DirtRoadRunner]

I'd go with this one:

http://www.bikesdire...ss_xii_sram.htm

Carbon fork, better gearing, and better components all-around.  I think Sora shifters kind of suck.  And if you are in Washington, the 36/46 with an 11-32 in back will make climbing hills much easier than the 12-26 which the other bike has. I think you'd end up finding the Sora bike way too high geared and would have a lot of problems getting up steep hills unless you are very fit and light (which most of us are not).

However, I wouldn't recommend getting a BikesDirect bike for your first bike, unless you are mechanically inclined. You'll have to assemble it (or pay a bike shop to do it...), get the deraillers and brakes adjusted just right, then fit it to yourself.  None of this stuff is "hard" if you've been working on bikes for a bit (I bought my last bike online and did that....), but it is a lot for a first-timer to do.  It might be worth it to buy a similar bike from a shop, where it will come perfectly adjusted and you'll get a free fit.  Money well-spent, IMO.  There are lots of other SRAM Apex CX bikes out there for $1000-1500 or so, which I would recommend based on your location.

[Steve T.]

i have had good luck with finding decent used bikes both on this site and on CL.  Good steel bikes might be harder to find but would be my choice for longer Katy rides, even if it meant older bikes with downtube shifters (however for more road riding I would have to vote for an aluminum bike with STI shifting unless carbon was in the budget)  If I had the cash I would buy a good fitting steel cyclocross bike from a LBS but I ride an older road bike(s) on the Katy.
I just started riding the rodes again and  also "rediscovered" the Katy trail after not riding it for many years.  I am off on weekdays alot and it can be pretty uncrowded M-Th.
Anybody ride 28 mm width road tires on the Katy with a recommended band/model that might fit on an older steel road frame?  Gatorskins are kind or pricey, is there a narrow cyclocross tire that might fit an old road bikes?

[billh]

Jetmugg, on 17 April 2012 - 02:29 PM, said:

Haank:
   Depending on your physical size, you might want to check with the seller of this Scott CX bike.

http://stlbiking.com...-scott-cx-comp/

as an aside . . . in the above listing, is it true that a cx 49cm frame = road 54cm frame?  ??  that doesn't sound right.  these are seat tube based measurements, right?  I've always found that 58 cx frame is about a 58 road.

[cleeland]

billh, on 18 April 2012 - 04:01 PM, said:

Jetmugg, on 17 April 2012 - 02:29 PM, said:

Haank:
   Depending on your physical size, you might want to check with the seller of this Scott CX bike.

http://stlbiking.com...-scott-cx-comp/

as an aside . . . in the above listing, is it true that a cx 49cm frame = road 54cm frame?  ??  that doesn't sound right.  these are seat tube based measurements, right?  I've always found that 58 cx frame is about a 58 road.

That can absolutely be true.  You need to check the effective top tube measurement if you want to compare framesets.

Also, as a counterpoint to TFA's assertion that low and long stems hurt your back--the longer and lower the stem for me, the LESS my back hurts.  I know other that have the same effect.  So, listen to your body, and be willing to experiment with fit.  Just take it slow, change one thing at a time, and take notes with measurements so you can return to where you were.

[Russian Bear]

billh, on 17 April 2012 - 10:58 AM, said:

You just wouldn't want to do a road race on a cross bike.

You can totally race road with a cross bike!

Although I did end up getting a road bike in the end

[haank]

Dirtroadrunner, I am pretty fit but not exactly light, and yes for my road riding hills are a constant. Any edge to make the hills easier would be a big help. Re bikesdirect, I would take mine to a shop for final assembly. I agree my first purchase would probably be better through a shop, but those prices on bikesdirect look pretty sweet. The savings in sales tax alone would pay for most if not all of the professional assembly.

[Russian Bear]

I bought my first bike from bikesdirect and paid an lbs to assemble it. I feel like since there is such a void of lower end bikes(good luck getting anything new for under a grand) BD has found a great market. You get a good price, your lbs gets some money from you for the service of assembly and in the end, YOU get into cycling. Good for everyone.

Of course what happens next is you start spending more and more money on this hobby anyway

[rockhound]

For that kind of money, get a Surly Cross Check complete and ride it forever.

(null)

[haank]

Hi all. An unexpected medical bill got in between and a new bike this spring. Now with the budget cleared I am back in the market. Been to a couple bike shops but keep flirting with bikesdirect.com. Are the Motobecane bikes a fair value? How would they compare to say a Fuji cross at similar list price? I am partial to the Motobecane Fantoms http://www.bikesdire...cross_bikes.htm