33 replies to this topic

[haank]

Hello, newbie here. I'm a 46 yo guy, long-time runner who rediscovered my love of biking recently after a running injury. I'm back running now but also have been spending a lot of my time on the bike and need to upgrade. I have an old hybrid Raleigh which is actually pretty decent but I'm looking for an entry level or mid-range road bike. The bike needs to be Katy Trail-capable as well as roads. I'd like to keep this in the $600-$800 range but would consider more if the value is there.

Any recommendations / feedback / advice appreciated.

Thanks.

[cleeland]

Consider a cyclocross bike.  You'll be able to run any size tire you want (a 700x25 or 700x28 would be super comfy and not slow at all), and if you put mini V brakes on it you'll have road-worthy braking power.  You don't even need to do new--you could do used.

[ssalmons]

Agreed, I picked up a Motobecane cross bike on Craigslist for $400, it is quite a nice bike and was very affordable.  I could probably fit 32 or 35c tires, although I am running 28 now.  I'm not sure the Katy requires big 32 or 35 tires.

[skibum77]

I agree as well.  I bought a cyclocross bike last month and have not touched my road bike since the purchase.  Not a whole lot of speed loss (for me anyway) and lots more versatility.  I'm running the 700 x 32's that came on the bike for now.

[Russian Bear]

Nthing the cyclocross bike, they're like the swiss army knife of the bike world and fit fat tires/fenders/racks etc. What size do you need?

[haank]

Thanks for the advice, sounds like the way to go. skibum, I read your blog and you hit some of the same trails I like to ride. We did a loop recently that started in Wildwood went through Rockwood Res to Al Foster up Rock Hollow and then up to 109 and Babler, then finally to the Monarch Levee trail and back. Sounds like the cyclocross can handle the varying terrain and still give the bump in speed I'm looking for. I rode the Katy pretty hard this past weekend on my hybrid and managed about 14.5 mph on a 30-min rep or so. This was frustrating as I feel for my effort level I ought to be going faster.

[haank]

Oh yeah, one other question: Would we be sacrificing any comfort on the cyclocross? My wife and I would eventually like to work up to some longer Katy Trail rides, maybe up to 60-70 miles per day or so. Our hybrids are pretty comfortable if somewhat slow. How would a cyclocross compare?

[ssalmons]

It all depends on setup, initially mine came with a pretty low handlebar, so I added a steep stem to get the bars up, it is very comfortable now.  If you're not used to drop bars it will require some getting used to, but in the end I think it is more comfortable than flat bars.  I also suggest getting the widest bars you can find, that helped me as well.

[Eggman]

Whatever you buy, make sure it fits.
If you are not racing, cyclocross is ideal. If you are willing to pay more money, I suggest the check some of the the disc equipped monster cross bikes (can also fit a 29x2.0 tires) and have fender and panniers mounts. In reality it will be the only bike you'll ever need.
Otherwise, if you are sticking with your budget, your best bet is a used bike

[saint_john]

cleeland, on 12 April 2012 - 02:49 PM, said:

Consider a cyclocross bike.  You'll be able to run any size tire you want (a 700x25 or 700x28 would be super comfy and not slow at all), and if you put mini V brakes on it you'll have road-worthy braking power.  You don't even need to do new--you could do used.

+1

[JerryW]

haank, on 13 April 2012 - 04:51 AM, said:

Oh yeah, one other question: Would we be sacrificing any comfort on the cyclocross? My wife and I would eventually like to work up to some longer Katy Trail rides, maybe up to 60-70 miles per day or so. Our hybrids are pretty comfortable if somewhat slow. How would a cyclocross compare?

The one downside to a cross bike is that many of them are made for thrashing on trails for about an hour during a race. Comfort isn't a major consideration for cross bikes.

I rode across the KATY last year on a Bianchi hybrid that didn't fit too well and one of my knees paid the price. So I bought a steel touring bike with road handlebars and 700x32 tires for crossing the KATY again in June. It fits me much better than the hybrid and is faster than it. However it's a heavy beast and much slower than my carbon fiber road bike when out on the road. It's cheap at $600. The saddle met the legal definition barely. It was horrible for me and was the second thing that I replaced on the bike. The quill stem, for a better fit, was the first.
http://www.bikesdire...sor/tourist.htm

The Trek 520 touring bike is much nicer than what I bought, but about double the price new.

A cross bike might be a good compromise; however, it will be a compromise. Ideally a person would own 2 or 3 bikes to meet their various needs.

Edited by JerryW, 13 April 2012 - 08:08 AM.

[cleeland]

Disagree on comfort factor. In fact, my two cross bikes are the most comfortable bikes I own. The geometry is relaxed from a road bike--more like a touring frame. The lower end redline and kona seem to be targeting exactly the non race market. I have an old steel lemond that is super plush--too plush to race in fact. It even has eyelets.

(null)

[DirtRoadRunner]

My cyclocross bike is more comfortable than my road bike.  The riding position is more upright.  I have a Nashbar steel CX bike - it cost me $725 shipped and is nicely equipped.  If you plan to ride on both the road and trails, I'd recommend a second set of wheels, tires, and cassette (say $200 for a tough but heavy set of wheels, another $75 for tires, and $50 for a cassette).  You'll also want clipless pedals ($30-100), shoes ($75), computer ($15-50), bottles & cages ($20), seat pack ($20), multi-tool ($30), and mini-pump ($10) if you plan to do many long-distance rides.  So that puts you at around $600 alone over the cost of the bike!

For a new bike, check out a Kona Jake (~$850), Surly Cross Check (~$1100), or a CX bike from Nashbar or Bikesdirect if you are mechanically inclined and don't mind putting it together yourself.  But don't expect to get into the hobby, with accessories, for less than $1500 unless you buy everything used.

Regarding a touring bike, I used to ride one (Cannondale T-400) for my commuter and Katy trail bike.  They are comfortable, but heavy and don't handle well unloaded.  My CX bike handles MUCH better and is a lot more fun to ride.  But I run into heel strike issues when I put panniers on it.  I wouldn't get one unless you actually plan on touring.

[haank]

Update: I visited my local bike shop Saturday and after discussion the recommendation was if the main purpose of the cross bike was to ride the Katy, then get a road bike and put Katy tires on it (28's was the recommendation). I would have versatility then for Katy and road. Basic line of thinking was the cross bike is primarily specific to cross racing of course so if I don't intend to use it for that purpose, then why get it? If road and Katy is primarily my aim then just get a road bike with Katy tires. I was also told the road bike is going to be cheaper for same quality because cross is more specialized.

Any thoughts? I was invited to test drive bikes but it was raining so will wait for another day.

Thanks again.

[Jetmugg]

My thoughts - most true "road" bikes  (i.e. road racing bikes) will not accomodate 28mm tires, plus the grit and grime that are associated with a ride on the KATY.  If there is any moisture out there, the grit gets on your tires, and will rub the underside of the fork and possibly the chain stays on the rear, or the seat tube, depending on the geometry of the specific bike.

I have ridden my road bike with 23mm tires on the KATY, from St Charles to Jeff City, but it was very hot and dry at the time.  The ride was harsh, but fast.  That was before I had a cyclocross bike.

I very much prefer the 'cross bike for comfort (more upright riding position), tire choices up to at least 32's are no problem, and the overall gearing is more suitable for non-road racing needs.  I currently have my 'cross bike set up as a commuter with 28mm tires, a rear rack, lights, and a more comfortable saddle.

When 'cross racing season comes around, I switch wheels and tires, take off the rack and lights, and swap on a racing saddle.  Presto-chango, I'm back on a dedicated racing machine.

Regarding cost, I have not noticed that road bikes with a particular groupset (say Shimano 105 for example) are any cheaper than similarly equipped 'cross bikes.  If you are trying to stay in the $600-800 range, my personal preference would be to buy a used bike, a couple of years old, with a higher end groupset.  For my money, a used bike like that would be better than a new bike with a bottom-shelf groupset.

Steve.